Sunday, 19 November 2017

Project RiLeaf, Kinabatangan and Danum Valley, Sabah

1st to 5th August 2017 by Suhaila Merican
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Admittedly, our interest was to participate in Project RiLeaf and, ultimately, to plant tree saplings along the banks of the great Kinabatangan; oh, you know, our small effort to save the world! Indeed, the experience not only met expectations but exceeded it in a way that involved renewed respect for the Malaysian environment and the people of Sandakan.


Come Tuesday 1st Aug 2017, the Adventurous Eight - Leong Ming Chee, Lam Ah Chye , Gordon Goh, Simon Toh, Zaiton Mohammad, Zaliha Mohammed, Rahmah Ibrahim, and I, met up at KLIA2 to board the first flight to Sandakan. Quick hello’s and handshakes; some we knew well, others we sort of know, you know?  Landing at the Sandakan Airport was first met with green fields and sawah padi; but the enormous glass building at the end of the runway told me this isn’t some small place. An efficient disembarkation was followed by meeting our guide cum driver who took us to a hotel not too far from the airport. Nothing much to see yet, no traffic jams though. From here on, our adventure begins…..


Tea and Scones at the Agnes Keith House and Rainforest Discovery Centre (RDC)



What? Tea and scones in Sandakan? Like many places in Malaysia, we have a very Anglo heritage. So, we learned that Agnes was a rather well-known author (Land Below the Wind)), and the wife of a British Conservator; Harry who was known to start forest conservation in Sabah. Their legacy includes a beautiful home and grounds where you can get a pretty good view of Sandakan.


Not too far away is the famous Sepilok area where you have the RDC which is a Forest Reserve, the Orang-Utan Rehabilitation Centre and the Bornean Sun Bear Conservation Centre.. That was where things began to get exciting with close-ups of Orang-Utans, Sun Bears and even a poisonous green Viper. We are reduced to minions when walking in this forest of giant and very tall trees (crane your neck and still cannot see the top). The Sepiloks are hundreds of years old and proof that we are in primary forests. However, while sweltering in the forests, and camera ready, all we got were shrieks, cackles and a cacophony of indescribable noises, probably from birds, monkeys and insects. Unperturbed, we just did a lot of we-fies and then headed to the feeding grounds (where the tourists were). As we watched a Warden hold the hand of a young adult Orang-Utan to lead it to feeding area, we are reminded that the 96% (almost) human henna-like haired monkey can stand more upright than some of us Retirees. Moving on.


Gomantong Cave, where things begin to get dark, dirty and smelly… and then the boat ride on the Kinabatangan River



A long and bumpy ride to the Gomantong Cave, nestled in its Forest Reserve, we got to see the biggest bird cage for Swiftlets and the main ‘producer’ of bird nests in Sabah. Guards were stations within and at every opening of this massive cave, probably to ward off poachers. A friendly warden showed us a bird nest which was curved and hardened, he highlighted parts of the cave where there were incredible formations and patterns of the rock face, a nest of tarantula spiders (very small spiders lah), poisonous centipedes and millipedes and lots and lots of cockroaches. Walking back thru the forest reserve, we thought we lost Gordon (I thought he was in front of me!) but found him still taking pictures in the Cave. So after more We-fies, we shoot off to Sukau!


We meet Cik Kertijah, our very own Nestle Agricultural Officer, who is dedicated to the RiLeaf Project. She brings us to our boats and off we go to the most scenic part of our holiday. It is stunning, the river is some 560km long and in some places a mile wide. A rope is strung across the river so monkeys can get across safely (they are not good swimmers according to the guides) and away from the crocodile infested river. It’s like an open zoo with monkeys around the banks, Proboscis monkeys with their famous profiles of a large droopy nose and an even larger droopy belly, relaxed on 60foot trees, chewing on their favourite leaves, eagles and hornbills flying above us, and more snakes. If you plan to go, bring along binoculars or a super camera; those trees are really tall.


We planted 5 trees each along the banks of the great Kinabatangan River



So, the next morning, after a hearty breakfast at Sukau B&B, we head to Bilit and then take a boat to the Mereguh area with some 40 saplings and several of Kertijah’s assistants. They didn’t spoil us at all and assigned us to the markers where we were to plant our trees. The area was just metres away from the river and was quite an open area, probably cleared earlier by the experts. So, with a hoe and a prayer we fulfil our duties to the environment and hope Mr Yong Lee Keng of Agricultural Services will be pleased. We, of course, took lots of pictures here; before dig, after dig, with hole in ground, with tree, with changkol, macam-macam. I spoke to my plants, the Litsia and Payung-Payung, and told them to grow properly, okay.


I think every Nestle personnel should go visit Kinabatangan and go plant a tree.


2 hours to Lahad Datu and another 2.5hours to Danum Valley and Leech Socks.



Managed by the Danum Valley Conservation Area, we were lucky to get to stay in Danum Valley amongst researchers, conservationists and protectors of biological diversity! Also, Prince William and wife Kate walked the same trails we did, hah!


On the drive up we saw an elephant cross our path; as we grabbed our cameras, it disappeared into the bushes. No worries, another adventure awaits us. A huge log had fallen across the road. As you can see from the picture, it was a pretty big tree. So, while waiting for help, a few of us decided to see if we could move it ourselves. Fortunately, the driver decided to brave the tight corner and after some manoeuvring, was successful and so we continued on our journey.


No lah, Leeches don’t wear socks but we have to, to prevent the little blighters from getting past our pants and socks. Despite being all bundled up and choosing to walk on a dry, sunny morning, EVERYBODY kena. The ladies did a short 1km walk over the canopy, past Sepiloks and (elephant) trampled orchid plants. Ming Chee and I climbed up an observation tower overlooking the very tree Prince William climbed up on his visit here. The Gentlemen Retirees chose to take the longer route to Tembaling Falls; something that was deemed a true challenge, so we were told. Coming back they had their own stories to boast of.


Anyway, when we opted for a Night Safari, things got a lot brighter (mind the pun). This was a 9pm ride on the back of an SUV with 2 guides sitting on the roof of the cab as spotters shining their super torchlights, while the very experienced driver-guide would look for reflections from eyes. So cool. No elephants though but we did get to see several civet cats, an owl that turned its head to check us out and 2 red birds huddled together trying to ignore us; all very lovely. But the icing on the cake were the deer; just metres away from the boys quarters is an open field. Lo and behold, there must have been 8 of them just grazing quietly looking so beautiful.


Give thanks

Cik Kertijah A. Kadir was key in the organisation of the details of the visit by MNRA to Sandakan. We are very grateful to her and her team; we appreciate and admire their dedication to the RiLeaf Project and hope they will be able to continue to do such great work. The Project has not only achieved the hundreds of thousands of plantings but gained much respect amongst the locals and visitors to Sukau and Sandakan. I recall when our group were introduced to the proprietors of Myne Resort as Nestle Retirees, they retorted by saying “Oh ya, ni semua lejen lejen Nestle”. We are so privileged to be part of this Country that holds such treasures. I have renewed respect for the East Malaysians especially those who play a role in Conservation; we thank them for their dedication and hope many more of us will help nurture this good practice.


This group from MNRA is a diverse mix from Sales to Production and Head Office. Our lovely tour guide cum treasurer Zaiton kept to the schedule and thankfully the visit was without incident. Perhaps the only disappointment, if at all, was we did not get to try the local red durian in Sandakan. We had 5 full days of fun, laughter, good food and renewed friendship.


Do it again MNRA!



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